Saturday, December 24, 2011

Merry Christmas, Y'all!


   Hard to get into the spirit of the season when it's been swampy warm and raining the last week.  And to think, we missed a White Christmas by a matter of hours here last year.

You know what?
This guy is starting to look WAY too familiar.

   Hope you're all having a fine holiday season, and are all ready to saddle up and canter into the New Year sound and happy.

   For those of you wanting to stretch your Christmas money, I've got a 40% discount on the Millwater's Farriery trade paperback set-up to run through Boxing Day only.  That's about as low as I can go without stepping on retailers.  Use the check-out code "YPLFZ3CT" when ordering direct.  The code doesn't work on Amazon.

   Also keep an eye on the Millwater Publishing FaceBook page, where discounts and specials are usually posted.  (I don't control the discount codes on the hardcover version, but report them as soon as the info is available to me.)

   If anyone has any questions or suggestions for blog topics going into the new year, feel free to let me know!


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Monday, December 19, 2011

Millwater's Farriery: Farrier Competency.


   Over the years I've read and heard a lot of folks decrying the 'evils' of horseshoeing.  When I point-out that they are describing the effects of poor horseshoeing, they often deny that they cut corners, and claim that the work was done by "good farriers".  Which causes me to question just what some people think a good farrier really is.

   Admittedly, finding and recognizing a competent farrier isn't an easy task for today's horseowner.  You can ask your vet or trainer, but they aren't experts in applied farriery, and their opinions are often colored by how willing a farrier is to let them call the shots for shoeing without question.  You can get recommendations from other horseowners, and they will likely suggest a guy based more on likability than actual competence.  Many people are more concerned with price and easy scheduling than knowledge and skill.



   So what does it take to be a truly competent farrier, and how can the horseowner recognize these attributes?


Shoeing School Diploma...

   A lot of people seem to think that going to horseshoeing school is how one becomes a farrier, so a diploma means that a shoer is qualified to practice farriery.  Truth is that horseshoeing schools run the gamut from embarrassments to the trade through excellent programs run by highly credentialed instructors.  Courses range from a few hours to several months.  So all diplomas are definitely not created equal.

   The better schools are a great way to start training as a farrier.  But even the best are only a beginning.  A horseshoer advertising his horseshoeing school diploma actually strikes me as being like a neurosurgeon bragging about passing his high school biology class.


Experience...

   There was a time, not all that long ago, when the big kahunas of the horse business in some parts of the country were the Ol' Horsetraders.  Their claim to fame was usually that they'd "been in th' hoss bizniss f' thutty-odd years!"  One didn't have to be a great mathematician to figure out that, factoring in their age, Navy service (not a whole slew of horses on battleships), etc., most of the Ol' Horsetraders where I grew-up were calculating their 'careers' from occasionally playing with their grandpa's retired plow horse as a kid straight through to thirty or so years later without regard to a whole lot of non-horsey time in-between.

   Of course, even some fellows who had actually been continuously active with horses for many years appeared to have originally learned 'horsemanship' from dime novels and Hollywood westerns, and never improved much from that point.  So clearly, experience doesn't guarantee competence.

   On the other hand, experience can provide insight and deep understanding that no amount of academic study can.  Especially in regard to horses, who take years to progress from one phase of life to the next.  It takes a full year just to observe an individual horse's 'normal' transitions across the seasons.  Developing a pathology, then re-stabilizing afterwards can take over a year.  Then another year is needed to observe the post-pathology 'new norms'.

   Ideally, would-be farriers should spend their first four years in apprenticeship under the direction of an established farrier while they gain the needed basic experience.  Unfortunately, this isn't practical in the modern horse world.  But a wise horseowner will understand that any horseshoer with less than a half-decade in the trade should be considered a trainee, and should be employed only on the advice of a real farrier who knows whether your horses' needs and the trainee's ability level are compatible.

   Let the mentorless  rookies 'practice' on other peoples' horses.

   Also keep in-mind that (for reasons I find rather disrespectful to the profession) quite a few middle-aged men decide to take up horseshoeing.  Having some gray around the temples doesn't preclude the shoer from being a green rookie.


Not necessarily an expert farrier.


Professional status...

   There was a time when setting up a horseshoeing business was a pretty big deal.  You needed a good-sized shop in a prominent location, forges, anvils, vises, stocks, and a crew of employees usually working in teams.  Not unlike a full-service auto repair shop today.

   Then came the crash of the horse population and the rise of automotive transport in the 20th Century.  The typical horseshoeing business devolved into a guy with a few tools in a truck.  Horseshoeing became a low-investment way for a dude to be able to claim to be in the 'hoss bizniss'.

   Despite the re-development of farriery as a profession since then, there are still plenty of horseshoers who treat it as an avocation.  A less than competent part-time horseshoer can stay in business indefinitely, since he doesn't have to make a living at it.  Being a successful, full-time farrier over an extended period of time may not absolutely prove competence, but it is certainly evidence in favor.


Journeyman level knowledge and skills...

   A competent farrier has to understand hoof and limb anatomy and biomechanics, including hoof flexing and growth, as well as gait dynamics.  He must have comprehensive insight into the effects of hoof capsule modification on protection and support of internal structures, as well as the functional balance of the digit...  In other words, he should know how to trim hooves to preserve or restore soundness.

   Unfortunately, this essential feature of farriery is under-emphasized.  This is partly because other aspects of applied farriery as so much more impressive-looking.  But mostly because hoof balance is a bit complex and inherently subjective, so that most laymen (and non-farrier professionals) can't easily recognize the quality of hoof trimming.  But horses who routinely come-up sore after trimming are compelling evidence that a horseshoer doesn't understand the hoof capsule sufficiently.

   A professional-level farrier must also have fine control over the prosthetic devices (aka horseshoes, pads, etc.) he applies to hooves.  This means the ability to forge good handmade shoes, including bar shoes.

   It may seem a bit archaic in this era of countless brands, styles, and sizes of quality factory-made horseshoes.  Indeed, many fully competent farriers rarely turn handmade shoes in the field, or even use the forge with many of their keg shoes.  But the ability to produce appropriate, well-fit shoes from raw bar stock demonstrates that the farrier is never limited by the factory shoe design, and doesn't have to compromise the good of the hoof to make it fit the shoe.  Real farriers have forges and know how to use them.




   A journeyman farrier must also be a horseman.  Able to handle and get-along with the animals, as well as to understand the demands their occupations put upon them, and how to best enable them to meet these demands.


Certification...

   Because farrier skills are difficult for non-farriers to effectively evaluate, formal examination and credential systems would seem to be called-for.

   The American Farriers Association Certified Journeyman Farrier (CJF) level indicates an admirable level of technical knowledge and precision/efficiency in the forging and application of horseshoes.  In fact, the difficulty of the exam (due largely to tight time limits and exam procedures apparently designed to interfere with the normal flow of work) makes it almost more of a hazing ritual than an evaluation of practical competence.

   The AFA has tended to discourage the use of its certifications as field credentials.  Even CJF, their highest level, is available to hobbyists with only two years' experience.  (They have three lower level certifications as well.)  Their certification system grew out of horseshoeing contests which, for the sake of objectivity, require fixed standards.  This means their examinations are strong on testing the ability to perform operations to precise, pre-published parameters, but are short on variables which might insure the applicant has a wider array of skills than those practiced specifically for the examination.

   The Brotherhood of Working Farriers Association has actively promoted their certifications as field credentials for farriers.  Unfortunately, their lower level certifications don't approach anything that could be considered minimal competence, and irregularities with their higher level certifications render them unreliable as evidence of knowledge or skill.  There have been many good farriers in the BWFA, but BWFA certification doesn't tell you anything about a horseshoer's practical competence.

   The Guild of Professional Farriers was founded specifically to establish a formal standard of competence for professional farriers.  Its minimum credential, required for membership, is Registered Journeyman Farrier (RJF), which is available only to full-time farriers with over four years' verifiable field experience.  The exams include double-aspect written test questions (to discourage rote memorization), and practical skills tests designed to demonstrate both precision of work and the ability to effectively evaluate a horse's needs.

    The high minimum standard of the GPF tends to keep membership low, and most of the RJFs have full books, which limits the usefulness of the credential to horseowners.

   Two new systems have been announced.  The AAPF and FITS...  These are still in development and are unknown quantities at this writing.


   So, when seeking a really competent farrier, the horseowner should look for a full-timer with at least five years in the trade who can do hot shoeing with handmades (even if that's not what your horses need right now)...  Even better if he (or she) is an RJF or CJF.  'Extra points' for actively continuing education via clinics, symposiums, technical journals, and participation in farrier organizations.

   If you can't find anyone like this who can put you on schedule, at least try to find one who can recommend a protege or associate with abilities sufficient to meet your horses' needs.  They should be able to provide better guidance than the non-farriers horseowners often get recommendations from.



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Monday, December 12, 2011

Millwater's Farriery: And Other Hoofcare Books...

 
   It's been another rough, and kinda' sad week here at Prophet's Thumb.  Haven't had a lot of time or inclination to finish the next post on what makes a qualified farrier...

   Fortunately, I've got some nice content to fill the gap, thanks to Fran Jurga (Of Hoofcare & Lameness, the Hoof Blog, and the Equus Jurga Report.)

Fran Jurga on Horse Radio Network.

HRN Episode Page.


   Fran reviews various hoofcare books available as holiday gifts, including Millwater's Farriery.  (That bit starts about 21:30 minutes in, or 8:30 from the end.)


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Monday, December 5, 2011

Millwater's Farriery: Words Mean Things.

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   Kinda' swamped this week...  Since I'll be commenting on the practice and profession of farriery in upcoming blog entries, here are a handful of selected definitions from Millwater's Farriery: The Illustrated Dictionary of Horseshoeing and Hoofcare covering terms which seem to be misunderstood in the horse world today.

   {Italic boldface words in definitions have their own entries in the book.  Illustration resolution has been reduced for online viewing.}




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Sunday, November 27, 2011

On Farriery...


   Okay.  Following the various equestrian communities lately, I've noticed some troubling notions about farriery that I'd like to address...

   SHOEING SHOULD NOT MAKE HORSES SORE.  Okay, to err is human.  Anyone can misread a foot now and then.  But it is not normal or acceptable for previously sound horses to be sore after shoeing or trimming.  If someone tells you otherwise, they don't know what in the hell they're doing.  (Note that making major adjustments in balance, such as trimming a severely overgrown hoof back to some semblance of normal, can cause ligament soreness if the horse isn't rested for a couple days afterward.  That is a different matter entirely.)

   IF A HORSE CAN'T GO BAREFOOT ON MODERATE GROUND, HE IS NOT SOUND.  A freshly shod horse should be able to have his shoes pulled and immediately go on normal ground without being tender-footed.  If he can't, the foot has been over-trimmed and the sole is too thin.  Shoes on sound horses are supposed to be an enhancement for heavy use, severe terrain, or high performance, not a necessity for light use on turf.

    NO HORSE SHOULD ROUTINELY BE SORE AFTER EVERY TRIM.  Some horses have weak, sensitive feet and thin soles, and are easier to make tender than others...  But a competent farrier should recognize such feet and trim accordingly, or, at the very least, realize that he over-trimmed after the first time and preserve more horn mass thereafter!  If trimming results in soreness, too much was taken-off.  Period.

    THE FARRIER NEEDS YOUR INPUT.  You can tell the farrier about the horse's history (especially laminitis issues), tendencies, past problems, and the kind of use you intend to put the him to.  This information will help the farrier tailor the work to the animal's individual needs.

   A FARRIER DOES NOT NEED TO BE TOLD HOW TO DO HIS JOB.  If you feel the need to give the farrier specific instruction on trimming and/or shoe application, you need to either get a better farrier or buy some tools and do it yourself, since you obviously know how better than the professional expert you hired.

   YOUR VET, TRAINER, RIDING INSTRUCTOR, AND STABLE MANAGER ARE NOT EXPERTS IN APPLIED FARRIERY.  Yes, vets have tons of formal training, but almost none of it has anything to do with trimming and shoeing the equine hoof.  He has no more business giving shoeing instructions than the farrier has dictating colic surgery technique.  Trainers are notorious for buying into fads... Wanting to believe that their horses lost because the competition had magic shoes rather than admitting the other guy had a higher quality horse with better training who would have won even with cinder-blocks strapped to his feet.



   SHOEING JOBS THAT LAST 12 WEEKS ARE NOT A BRAGGING POINT!  It is actually not difficult to apply shoes in such a way that they will stay on a long time.  But doing so is usually not good for the horse.  Shoeing for long intervals encourages shoers to take away as much horn as possible without spilling blood (to get a head start against the extra weeks of growth before the next shoeing) which weakens the sole arch and precipitates the collapse of the foot into chronic "thin soles".  Shoers will also fit the shoes short and tight at the heels, usually with the heel nails placed behind the widest part of the foot.  This can result in corns as the heels overgrow the shoe and the load starts to grind against the sole.  This fit exacerbates the tendency of the bearing surface to shift forward as the hoof grows out, stressing the flexor/navicular interface and the anterior laminae.  Most horses need a 4-6 week shoeing cycle.  And no, that's not just shoers trying to get more work.

   NOT ALL HORSESHOERS ARE CREATED EQUAL!  So many people complain that they've used multiple "farriers" with poor results.  But I know how a lot of horseowners choose their shoers.  Back when I was in the Yellow Pages (before switching to referal-only), I'd come home almost every day to find messages on my machine from people wanting their horses shod.  More often than not, when we returned the calls, they'd already got someone else.  Or they couldn't wait until we had an opening.  Or they developed a speech impediment when we told them our rates...  If you're selecting a horseshoer based on the fact that he's got nothing better to do than answer the phone in the middle of the day, and is in so little demand that he can come out on short notice and is willing to shoe for beer money, you are not likely to get a top-quality professional farrier.  Being the handy "barn shoer", looking good in jeans, and being buddies with the vet/trainer/etc. are also less than impressive evidence of competence under the horse.



   LOOKS AREN'T EVERYTHING.  Form follows function, so usually a good shoeing job will be nice-looking.  High, even, smooth clinches.  That sort of thing...  But too often horseshoers get carried-away trying to make the foot look "perfect", even to the point of doing structural harm.  "Cupping" the sole... Trimming away horn to create apparent concavity... Actually weakens the solar arch and promotes the devolution of thin, flat soles in the long run.  Everything taken from the bottom of the foot leaves that much less protection.  The goal is to keep the horse sound.  Not to make the bottom of the foot look like an idealized plastic model.


   FARRIERS SHOULD BE UNSURPASSED AT HOOF TRIMMING.  We tend to focus on forging skills because fire, sparks, heavy tools, smoke, and bending steel to our precise will are just plain awesome...  It wasn't that long ago that the ability to turn a decent shoe was a rare thing, helping to separate the real farrier from the backyard shoe-horser...  But trimming horses to go barefoot makes up a large portion of the typical farrier's trade.  And, for all the emphasis on forging fancy therapeutic and corrective shoes, the majority of practical therapeutic and corrective shoeing is applying fairly ordinary shoes onto properly trimmed hooves.  The bulk of farriery is about recognizing what the individual needs and balancing the hooves accordingly.  A good barefoot trimming specialist may be able to do it as well, but nobody should be able to do it better than a fully competent professional farrier.


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Monday, November 21, 2011

Millwater's Farriery: Barefoot Movement III...

Horseshoe Alternatives.

   "My Natural Barefoot Trimmed horses get ridden nine-hundred miles per day, eight days a week, over broken glass and twisted scrap metal, and they're never lame and have beautiful feet!"

   That's the song many Barefoot Enthusiasts sang when prospective barefooters weren't sure their horses could handle working without shoes.  We still hear that sort of thing from a few of them today...

   Indeed, under the right conditions, some horses can develop remarkably durable hooves that hold-up well barefoot where one would expect shoes to be a necessity.  But not all horses have the genetic potential to become shoeless rock crushers, and not everyone has the option of providing the diet and lifestyle needed to produce optimum hoof capsule strength.  Eventually, the Barefoot Movement had to admit that some horses might need artificial protection for their feet...

   But, after going to great lengths to paint conventional farriery as the root of all hoofcare evils, they couldn't very well go back to horseshoes.  So alternatives were embraced.


Nothing new under the sun...
19th Century precursor to the Easyboot.
from Millwater's Farriery Historical Reference Appendix.

   Most of these alternatives actually have a place in practical hoofcare.  Hoof boots, for instance, can be handy 'spare tires' if a horse throws a shoe.  They also make sense if extra protection is only needed once in a while.  (Even though shoes need not be detrimental to the hooves, it just doesn't make sense to keep a horse shod all season long for the sake of a couple day-trips to the mountains.)

   For frequent, extended use, however, boots may not be such a great idea.

   First off, one of the supposed draw-backs of conventional horseshoes is that they interfere with hoof capsule flexing.  But the hoof sits on top of the shoe, and is attached only at the front...  Boots, hoof casting, and most glue-on shoes encase the hoof.  We only do that with a steel shoe (continuous clip) when we want to immobilize the hoof after a P3 fracture.  Otherwise, the conventional horseshoe is more like a flip-flop sandal compared to the alternatives, which are akin to tight-fitting full shoes.  Which really seems like it would allow more natural foot function?

   The hoof is more of a living, 'breathing' thing than most people realize.  One of the prime-movers in hoof capsule strength and function is moisture content and gradient.  The hoof gets plenty of moisture from within.  It evaporates moisture out through the wall and sole.  Ideally, the wall is relatively dry, rigid, and hard on the outside, while being wet, flexible, and soft inside.  The balanced combination allows maximum durability.  The sole can release even more moisture in less time, to regulate overall content in the hoof.  (You may have noticed that an apparently dry horse can leave damp footprints on white pavement after standing in one place for a few minutes.)

   Encasing the hoof capsule for extended periods interferes with the release of excess moisture, and can invert the moisture gradient of the wall.  A couple hours in boots for a rocky trail ride now and then won't do any real harm.  But extended, constant use of anything that 'seals in the juices' can eventually be bad news.

   Another frequent claim against conventional shoes is that they isolate the hoof from the ground, depriving it of the stimulation that would make it strong and tough.  But the conventional shoe only armors the bearing surface of the hoof wall and perimeter of the sole, leaving most of the sole and frog exposed to direct stimulation from the ground, and increasing their net elevation only by around 1/16" inch.

   Boots, casts, plastic, and synthetic rubber alternatives tend to cover all, or much, of the bottom of the foot.  They are also thicker than modern steel shoes, especially if used in conjunction with pads, as is popular practice.  They boast greater shock absorption than steel shoes, but is that really a good thing?  If a wafer of steel isolates the foot from the ground and prevents it from being as strong and tough as it could be, wouldn't having the horse walk around with veritable pillows strapped to his feet be much worse?

   Horseshoe alternatives actually predate horseshoes by centuries.  The steel horseshoe wasn't imposed on the horse world by arbitrary decree, nor did it spring fully-formed from the brow of Zeus.  It evolved and was refined over generations, competing with various well-established hoof protection devices all the while.  The horseshoe as we know it emerged as the standard because it was more effective, reliable, and practical than the other options.  

   It should also be noted that applying shoes does not inherently preclude the preservation of sole mass and the process of building concavity.  It's just a wear plate, and can be applied to hooves trimmed to the same fundamental parameters as a restorative Barefoot Trim.

   Some have wondered why farriers react so negatively to the Natural Barefoot Movement...  But, when you really look at it, the movement isn't that emphatic about "natural"  (synthetic rubber, acrylics, polymers, etc.) or "barefoot" (hooves encased in boots, casts, epoxies can't really be considered "bare", can they?)  It appears that the movement is really Anti-Farrier, rejecting conventional horseshoes primarily because they are conventional...  Even if that means relying on inferior, even counter-productive alternatives.

  The ultimate silliness of the 'ANYTHING but convention farriery' thinking has got to be the alternative solution based on affixing a steel wear plate with nails.  The Laser Tip!


"Then I'll ram my ovipositor down your throat and lay my eggs in your chest...
But I'm NOT an alien!"
(Tom Servo.)

   Seriously folks...  If your horse does well barefoot, terrific.  But if it needs shoes, find a competent farrier and have it shod.  Don't go to ridiculous lengths to avoid what works so well just because some think conventional farriery is unfashionable these days.

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Monday, November 14, 2011

Millwater's Farriery: Barefoot Movement II...




   When the current wave of enthusiasm for shoeless horses crashed ashore some years ago, a lot of the Barefoot Movement folks displayed an almost disturbing, pseudo-religious mindset.  This seems to have largely subsided, but there is still tendency for Barefoot Enthusiasts to take the whole thing a bit overboard in some respects.

   Of course, it's only human nature to want to believe that the great new thing you're focusing-on is really, really special.  Complex.  Revolutionary.  And, if you're trying to make a trade of something, you naturally want to foster the perception that it takes extraordinary skill and know-how.

   We see a lot of this in hoof care.  Despite the fact that mustangs (not one of whom has so much as a high school diploma!) are able to do a pretty good job of it with nothing but abrasive ground, some folks are intent on making trimming into quantum physics.

   Truth is, there is only just so much you can do by subtracting horn.  And there are only three essential commandments for trimming sound hooves to go barefoot...

I.  Thou shalt always preserve the integrity of the hoof capsule.
   (i.o.w. Don't take off anything the horse still needs!)

II.  Suffer not an edge to live.
   (i.o.w. Round, bevel, radius the heck out of everything.  Leave no sharp corners anywhere.)

III.  Make not any catastrophic errors in fundamental balance.
   (i.o.w.  Seriously. Just get it into the ballpark somewhere.)

   You see, the dirty little secret of farriers (and now Barefoot Specialists) is that unshod hooves on reasonably sound and straight horses are quite forgiving and self-correcting if you just obey the Three Commandments above. 

    The so-called Traditional Farrier's Trim breaks the second and often the first commandments.  The original Strasser barefoot trim breaks the first and third commandments.  So both of these should be avoided like the plaque.

   The Four Point, Natural Balance, Mustang Roll, HPT, and most other barefoot trims do not inherently break any of the commandments, assuming reasonably competent implementation.  While there are some functional differences between the approaches, these are inherently limited and transient.

   Competent farriers have to be very precise about how they balance a hoof for shoeing, because we are going to apply a metal plate to 'lock-in' the trim job.  But, when trimming to go barefoot, the farrier or trimmer has a partner.

HOWDY PARTNER!!!

   That partner doesn't read any scientific research, cares not a whit for the teachings of the guru du jour...  And he gets to keep working on the hooves after we are finished!

   This is usually a blessing.  If the trimmer makes minor errors in hoof balance, it won't take the horse long to fix them by wearing off the overloaded part of the bearing surface while the underloaded areas grow down.  But there is a limit to how much the horse can fix.  And, if trimmed radically out of balance, limb function can be thrown so far out of whack that the self-correcting wear mechanism no longer works and the hoof gets worse over time...  But the idea that precise fine-tuning of the hoof trim has any great long-term effect is really kind of silly when you realize that the horse is basically going to overwrite the finer aspects of the trimmer's work in a matter of days.

   This can also be a bit of a curse, if the horse 'wants' to adapt its feet in detrimental ways.  For instance, take a toed-out horse who wings-in and interferes.  A strong Four Point type trim may get him to breakover towards the center of the toe, setting the foot up for a straighter flight that avoids the interference...  At least for a few day to a couple of weeks, when the medial 'points' wear down and allow the horse to resume breaking over the insides of its hooves.

   Just as farriers are too preoccupied with forging the perfect specimen shoe, or being able to precisely perform a shoeing job to arbitrary standards in the fastest time, rather than mastering the practical fundamentals of giving the horse what it needs to work sound,  Barefoot Enthusiasts appear to be preoccupied with aspects of the hoof that the very nature of a barefoot horse renders pretty much moot. 

   When it comes right down to it, all you can really do is preserve the useful hoof capsule, get rid of the edges and corners which create foot-stressing leverage until they ultimately split and peel off, and try to get the foot reasonably into balance.  Even practical therapeutic trimming is usually based on trying to coax the hoof back into something akin to normal form. 

   And you know what?  These things are more than enough of a challenge for most people to master.  Look at all these reports of "my horse comes up sore after every trim", and "my horse has thin soles".  That's a First Commandment fail.  The jammed heels and distorted hooves we see pictured are not the result of someone failing to comprehend the latest super-scientific studies of hoof function on the microscopic level.  They're the result of someone breaking the Third Commandment in a big way.

   Before going all rocket science, hoof care providers (farriers and trim specialists alike) probably need to make a push to get the basics down-pat.

   Don't get me wrong.  I've got about a tractor-trailer load of books, trade journals, speaker's notes, videos, audio tapes, and other materials laden with advanced research and academic theory.  Before the Gestapo took over America's airports, I was a frequent flyer to cutting-edge events far and wide.  I love science for science's sake...  But I've also learned to give priority to knowledge that can actually be applied in a practical manner.  There are limits to how much you can accomplish with nippers and a rasp, especially when the horse is going to be free to tweak your work after you're done.

P.S.  I know that the Natural Horse approach involves dietary, environmental, and lifestyle adjustments for the horses as well.  Good luck with that.  It'll work with horses under your 24/7 care, but clients' horses are often a different story.  We can advise and hope folks will pay heed, but all we really control is what we do with our brief time under the horse.

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